If you’d been a Venetian noble in the 18th century, you’d almost certainly have had your summer villa on the Brenta Canal, a narrow waterway that connects Venice and Padua.

To reach it, you’d have sailed down the Grand Canal, across the Venetian Lagoon and into the Brenta in a burchiello, a luxury party barge designed specifically to transport you and your rich and famous friends. The point, at that time, was to see and be seen.

While the days of the Venetian Republic are long gone, it’s still possible to cruise the Brenta – though the modern-day version of a burchiello is less ostentatious party-barge and more comfortable-tourist-boat.

 

Our voyage on the Brenta began at the Padua end of the canal - an early morning start to what would be a leisurely day-long trip.
Our voyage on the Brenta began at the Padua end of the canal - an early morning start to what would be a leisurely day-long trip.
It's a voyage of about 40 kilometres from Padua to the Venetian Lagoon and, over that distance, the water level drops almost 10 metres.
It's a voyage of about 40 kilometres from Padua to the Venetian Lagoon and, over that distance, the water level drops almost 10 metres.
To accommodate that, vessels have to negotiate five locks, pass by nine swing-bridges, and travel under numerous other fixed bridges ...
To accommodate that, vessels have to negotiate five locks, pass by nine swing-bridges, and travel under numerous other fixed bridges ...
... some of which don't allow a lot of headroom. (As the boat approaches a low bridge, the guide on board issues an earnest warning - in three languages - to 'stay seated' ... we wondered if there'd ever been a time when someone hadn't).
... some of which don't allow a lot of headroom. (As the boat approaches a low bridge, the guide on board issues an earnest warning - in three languages - to 'stay seated' ... we wondered if there'd ever been a time when someone hadn't).
But it's not always plain sailing. This boat suffered a mechanical problem and blocked the canal for around half an hour - finally someone (our captain) had the good idea to enact an old-fashioned solution; attach a rope to the back of the boat and pull it along the tow-path until it straightens enough to reopen the canal.
But it's not always plain sailing. This boat suffered a mechanical problem and blocked the canal for around half an hour - finally someone (our captain) had the good idea to enact an old-fashioned solution; attach a rope to the back of the boat and pull it along the tow-path until it straightens enough to reopen the canal.
The cruise along the Brenta passes many fine villas ...
The cruise along the Brenta passes many fine villas ...
... including a few of those original Venetian villas from the 18th century; this one, the magnificent Villa Pisani, was the first stop on our voyage.
... including a few of those original Venetian villas from the 18th century; this one, the magnificent Villa Pisani, was the first stop on our voyage.
It's the most famous, and said to be the most beautiful, of all the villas built along the Brenta at the height of the Venetian Republic.
It's the most famous, and said to be the most beautiful, of all the villas built along the Brenta at the height of the Venetian Republic.
Wealthy Venetians loved to gamble, but by the 1600s it had become such a problem that the State banned all card and dice games - within a 15-mile radius of the city.
Wealthy Venetians loved to gamble, but by the 1600s it had become such a problem that the State banned all card and dice games - within a 15-mile radius of the city.
But the summer villas were outside the restricted zone - so the parties simply moved out of town.
But the summer villas were outside the restricted zone - so the parties simply moved out of town.
Villa Pisani's stables - a pretty significant building to house only six horses. But then, the point was to impress the neighbours. It impressed us.
Villa Pisani's stables - a pretty significant building to house only six horses. But then, the point was to impress the neighbours. It impressed us.
With the fall of the Venetian Republic in 1866, Villa Pisani passed to the State.
With the fall of the Venetian Republic in 1866, Villa Pisani passed to the State.
Seven decades later - in 1934 - the villa hosted the first official meeting of Mussolini and Hitler.
Seven decades later - in 1934 - the villa hosted the first official meeting of Mussolini and Hitler.
With the end of the Villa Pisani tour, it was back to the boat and on with the journey.
With the end of the Villa Pisani tour, it was back to the boat and on with the journey.
Our vessel - Il Burchiello - is one of a number of vessels that ply the canal. The best view is from up top, where's it's possible to see and be seen. :)
Our vessel - Il Burchiello - is one of a number of vessels that ply the canal. The best view is from up top, where's it's possible to see and be seen. 🙂
The naughty kids sit at the back. :)
The naughty kids sit at the back. 🙂
These remaining 18th century homes along the Brenta are known as 'Palladian villas'; they were built in the style of the 16th-century architect Andrea Palladio.
These remaining 18th century homes along the Brenta are known as 'Palladian villas'; they were built in the style of the 16th-century architect Andrea Palladio.
The designs were classical, symmetrical and strictly proportioned - those of us who like things 'in the box' love them - but while the exteriors of Palladian buildings were often austere ...
The designs were classical, symmetrical and strictly proportioned - those of us who like things 'in the box' love them - but while the exteriors of Palladian buildings were often austere ...
... the interiors were far more elaborate.
... the interiors were far more elaborate.
This one, Villa Widmann - completed in 1719 - includes some wonderful trompe l'oeil. We had to check with the guide as to whether this work was real or simply a 'trick of the eye'. It was incredible.
This one, Villa Widmann - completed in 1719 - includes some wonderful trompe l'oeil. We had to check with the guide as to whether this work was real or simply a 'trick of the eye'. It was incredible.
Back on the boat again to continue our journey east along the Brenta canal.
Back on the boat again to continue our journey east along the Brenta canal.
We mentioned there are nine swing-bridges on the Brenta; it's the job of these two men to open the bridges - manually - to allow boats to pass.
We mentioned there are nine swing-bridges on the Brenta; it's the job of these two men to open the bridges - manually - to allow boats to pass.
They spend their day driving up and down the canal, opening and closing bridges as boats pass by. We got to know our bridge openers pretty well.
They spend their day driving up and down the canal, opening and closing bridges as boats pass by. We got to know our bridge openers pretty well.
While most of the 'Palladian villas' were designed in the style of Andrea Palladio, this one - Villa Foscari, also known 'La Malcontenta' - was designed by the great man himself in the mid-16th century.
While most of the 'Palladian villas' were designed in the style of Andrea Palladio, this one - Villa Foscari, also known 'La Malcontenta' - was designed by the great man himself in the mid-16th century.
The name, 'La Malcontenta', comes from the fact that the Brenta was 'poorly contained' and often overflowed. Palladio designed this building so the main living areas were above the flood plain.
The name, 'La Malcontenta', comes from the fact that the Brenta was 'poorly contained' and often overflowed. Palladio designed this building so the main living areas were above the flood plain.
And it's an architectural masterpiece.
And it's an architectural masterpiece.
Each of its three levels had a specific purpose ...
Each of its three levels had a specific purpose ...
... the ground floor was dedicated to the work areas (kitchen, storerooms, laundry, cellar) ...
... the ground floor was dedicated to the work areas (kitchen, storerooms, laundry, cellar) ...
... the second floor was where the noble owners lived and slept,
... the second floor was where the noble owners lived and slept,
and the upper floor was used to store the estate's most valuable product - grain.
and the upper floor was used to store the estate's most valuable product - grain.
Here's Greg pondering the state of the world ... and wondering how we can get our hands on one of these Palladian villas. :)
Here's Greg pondering the state of the world ... and wondering how we can get our hands on one of these Palladian villas. 🙂
After our final stop for the day, it was back on board 'Il Burchiello' for the last leg of our voyage.
After our final stop for the day, it was back on board 'Il Burchiello' for the last leg of our voyage.
And before long, we'd left the Brenta behind and sailed into the Venetian Lagoon.
And before long, we'd left the Brenta behind and sailed into the Venetian Lagoon.
And then we'd arrived - in Venice ...
And then we'd arrived - in Venice ...
... that wonderous city that was home to the noble owners of those Palladian villas.
... that wonderous city that was home to the noble owners of those Palladian villas.
It was amazing to cruise up the Grand Canal - past Piazza San Marco and the Doge's Palace - to our final destination.
It was amazing to cruise up the Grand Canal - past Piazza San Marco and the Doge's Palace - to our final destination.
Then it was a quick disembarkation, and we'd arrived. Venice is such an incredible city - but, as always in this part of town, it was a case of trying to spot the local among the tourists.
Then it was a quick disembarkation, and we'd arrived. Venice is such an incredible city - but, as always in this part of town, it was a case of trying to spot the local among the tourists.
We may not have been part of the Venetian nobility, but our Brenta canal cruise had certainly evoked a sense of what life had been like in the Republic back in the 18th century; elegant, luxurious - and a whole lot of fun. Now, how can we afford one of those Palladian villas ... ?
We may not have been part of the Venetian nobility, but our Brenta canal cruise had certainly evoked a sense of what life had been like in the Republic back in the 18th century; elegant, luxurious - and a whole lot of fun. Now, how can we afford one of those Palladian villas ... ?