The southern-most part of Puglia, the narrow peninsular of land that is the ‘heel’ of Italy’s ‘boot’, is known as the Salento.

This area of the country has it all; lovely towns, sandy beaches, dramatic rocky coastlines.

You know those pictures you’ve seen of boats bobbing in impossibly-clear, blue-green water? Or of people swimming in incredibly beautiful rock pools? Many of those shots have been taken on Puglia’s Salento Coast. And when you wrap up all that beauty with good weather and great people, it becomes a package that’s hard to beat.

 

Locorotondo
Salento - West Coast
We travelled anti-clockwise around the peninsula, keeping the coast on our right
We travelled anti-clockwise around the peninsula, keeping the coast on our right
Gallipoli (not that Gallipoli) was the first main town we came to
Gallipoli (not that Gallipoli) was the first main town we came to
Gallipoli's historic centre is on a small island off the mainland
Gallipoli's historic centre is on a small island off the mainland
It's a significant fishing port
It's a significant fishing port
We watched as the boats - large and small - headed home in the evening
We watched as the boats - large and small - headed home in the evening
And then the action began; the fishermen sell their catch directly from the back of their boats or from boxes on the wharf
And then the action began; the fishermen sell their catch directly from the back of their boats or from boxes on the wharf
And the townspeople come down to buy their dinner
And the townspeople come down to buy their dinner
Just as in Monopoli, the whole event is a very social occasion
Just as in Monopoli, the whole event is a very social occasion
We'd never seen some of the fish on sale, but the fishermen were happy to tell us what was what; and they encouraged us to sample their wares (snap the head off a raw prawn and pop it into your mouth - it doesn't get much fresher than that)
We'd never seen some of the fish on sale, but the fishermen were happy to tell us what was what; and they encouraged us to sample their wares (snap the head off a raw prawn and pop it into your mouth - it doesn't get much fresher than that)
A successful day
A successful day
Then we found a few little 'seafood aperitivo' stands set up in an area behind the wharf; you start by choosing your shellfish which are shucked on the spot
Then we found a few little 'seafood aperitivo' stands set up in an area behind the wharf; you start by choosing your shellfish which are shucked on the spot
And then you make your choice of fish and crustaceans which go on the grill
And then you make your choice of fish and crustaceans which go on the grill
Everything is sold by weight - 5 euros per 100 grams, including wine and bread
Everything is sold by weight - 5 euros per 100 grams, including wine and bread
And of course it's all absolutely delicious!
And of course it's all absolutely delicious!
But the life of a fisherman isn't an easy one; the job of sorting and mending the nets is never-ending
But the life of a fisherman isn't an easy one; the job of sorting and mending the nets is never-ending
And the next day, it starts all over again
And the next day, it starts all over again
We had a couple of terrific meals in Gallipoli and met some great people too
We had a couple of terrific meals in Gallipoli and met some great people too
On the drive down the coast we came across this little sailors' cemetery set on a tiny finger of land reaching out into a bay
On the drive down the coast we came across this little sailors' cemetery set on a tiny finger of land reaching out into a bay
These ancient watchtowers, dotted all along the coast, were lookouts and semaphores; at the first sign of approaching invaders a fire was lit as a signal to the next tower
These ancient watchtowers, dotted all along the coast, were lookouts and semaphores; at the first sign of approaching invaders a fire was lit as a signal to the next tower
Some parts of the Salento seem more Greek or Spanish than Italian; it's a legacy of the area's history
Some parts of the Salento seem more Greek or Spanish than Italian; it's a legacy of the area's history
Greek colonists settled here in the 8th century BC, the Romans took over in the 3rd century BC, and in the 16th century Salento became part of the Spanish Empire
Greek colonists settled here in the 8th century BC, the Romans took over in the 3rd century BC, and in the 16th century Salento became part of the Spanish Empire
Those early influences are evident today in the architecture, culture and even language; there's still a small area where the locals speak a Greek dialect known as Grico
Those early influences are evident today in the architecture, culture and even language; there's still a small area where the locals speak a Greek dialect known as Grico
Salento - East Coast