Some of Italy’s best – and least-known – wines come from a small area around Montefalco in Umbria. Sagrantino has been produced here since the 1500s, but it’s only in recent years that this big red wine has been ‘discovered’.

Our tour of Montefalco included tasting fine wine, eating delicious food and an encounter with a very energetic nun.

 

From its hilltop perch, Montefalco looks out over the Umbrian countryside
From its hilltop perch, Montefalco looks out over the Umbrian countryside
Montefalco itself is a pretty town; the local butcher certainly has an eye for setting a scene
Montefalco itself is a pretty town; the local butcher certainly has an eye for setting a scene
But we'd come to try the Sagrantino - and it didn't disappoint; many wineries also produce their own olive oil
But we'd come to try the Sagrantino - and it didn't disappoint; many wineries also produce their own olive oil
Sagrantino is produced only in these hills around Montefalco (from about 100 hectares of vines in total); Sagrantino grapes can be grown elsewhere, but only those from this particular soil produce good wine
Sagrantino is produced only in these hills around Montefalco (from about 100 hectares of vines in total); Sagrantino grapes can be grown elsewhere, but only those from this particular soil produce good wine
With our appetites whetted, a nearby agritourismo (a working farm also offering accommodation) was the next stop
With our appetites whetted, a nearby agritourismo (a working farm also offering accommodation) was the next stop
We enjoyed a delicious lunch ...
We enjoyed a delicious lunch ...
... in a very relaxed setting
... in a very relaxed setting
Then it was back into town to visit the Monastery of Saint Clare of the Cross
Then it was back into town to visit the Monastery of Saint Clare of the Cross
Saint Clare was an Augustinian nun (1268-1308) who, with her sister, founded a monastery in Montefalco
Saint Clare was an Augustinian nun (1268-1308) who, with her sister, founded a monastery in Montefalco
Inside the public church attached to the monastery, there's a sign that says 'press the bell for more information' - so of course we did; a small grille popped open and a nun began telling us the story of Saint Clare
Inside the public church attached to the monastery, there's a sign that says 'press the bell for more information' - so of course we did; a small grille popped open and a nun began telling us the story of Saint Clare
And what a story it is - in 1294 Clare had a vision that Jesus planted his Cross in her heart; after her death Clare's heart was removed from her body and a crucifix and scourge were said to have been found inside it
And what a story it is - in 1294 Clare had a vision that Jesus planted his Cross in her heart; after her death Clare's heart was removed from her body and a crucifix and scourge were said to have been found inside it
It's possible to visit the monastery itself, so our guide opened a small door to let us in, then set off at a cracking pace through a maze of corridors and rooms
It's possible to visit the monastery itself, so our guide opened a small door to let us in, then set off at a cracking pace through a maze of corridors and rooms
The monastery is a treasure-trove of precious frescoes and relics relating to the life of St Clare; this one depicts the story of the mysterious traveller who appeared at the monastery and gave Clare his stick which later sprouted flowers and then berries
The monastery is a treasure-trove of precious frescoes and relics relating to the life of St Clare; this one depicts the story of the mysterious traveller who appeared at the monastery and gave Clare his stick which later sprouted flowers and then berries
Clare propagated seeds from the berries and today seven trees remain in the small garden that Clare herself tended; the nuns still use berries from these sacred trees to make rosary beads
Clare propagated seeds from the berries and today seven trees remain in the small garden that Clare herself tended; the nuns still use berries from these sacred trees to make rosary beads
Our guide, who'd just celebrated her 85th birthday, told us she was the youngest nun in the convent; she was a lot of fun (though between these two doing the jokes back and forth it was hard to get a pic of them both looking at the camera at the same time!)
Our guide, who'd just celebrated her 85th birthday, told us she was the youngest nun in the convent; she was a lot of fun (though between these two doing the jokes back and forth it was hard to get a pic of them both looking at the camera at the same time!)