We planned a day cruising the sparkling waters of the gulf, and what better way to do it? Blue skies, summer sun, luxurious motor launch … fabulous! Okay, we didn’t really cruise the bay in this, though we’d have liked to!

No, we had to be content with the local ferry – not quite as stylish, but it does the job.

The Gulf of La Spezia is otherwise known by the much lovelier title of Il Golfo dei Poeti – the Gulf of the Poets.

And luxury yacht or local ferry, there’s no doubt this beautiful bay conjures all the romance of the great Romantic poets.

 

In summer, an excellent network of ferries services the communities of the bay and beyond - rounding the coast and criss-crossing from one side to the other. This was the itinerary we put together for our day on the bay.
In summer, an excellent network of ferries services the communities of the bay and beyond - rounding the coast and criss-crossing from one side to the other. This was the itinerary we put together for our day on the bay.
We boarded the ferry in Fezzano with a plan to head over to San Terenzo on the other side.
We boarded the ferry in Fezzano with a plan to head over to San Terenzo on the other side.
The ferry service isn't as regular as the local bus, but it's much less crowded.
The ferry service isn't as regular as the local bus, but it's much less crowded.
And a far more pleasant way to get around.
And a far more pleasant way to get around.
First stop after Fezzano is Le Grazie.
First stop after Fezzano is Le Grazie.
The village is much quieter on weekdays and, often, there'll be mostly locals on the beach. The ladies on the right here certainly seem to be in their usual spot - perched on the old boat ramp, bags and towels hung on the fence behind.
The village is much quieter on weekdays and, often, there'll be mostly locals on the beach. The ladies on the right here certainly seem to be in their usual spot - perched on the old boat ramp, bags and towels hung on the fence behind.
Most passengers disembark the ferry at Porto Venere, the main town at the southern tip of the bay's western peninsular.
Most passengers disembark the ferry at Porto Venere, the main town at the southern tip of the bay's western peninsular.
A settlement has existed here for 2,000 years; the 12th century castle is still visible on the hill. At the waterfront, the tightly-packed row of houses was the town's first line of defence against invaders.
A settlement has existed here for 2,000 years; the 12th century castle is still visible on the hill. At the waterfront, the tightly-packed row of houses was the town's first line of defence against invaders.
Appropriately, this church on the rocky extremity of the peninsular is the Church of St Peter.
Appropriately, this church on the rocky extremity of the peninsular is the Church of St Peter.
It was completed in 1277, but a pagan temple stood on the site as long ago as the 5th century.
It was completed in 1277, but a pagan temple stood on the site as long ago as the 5th century.
Behind the church, the coast curves north, towards the Cinque Terre.
Behind the church, the coast curves north, towards the Cinque Terre.
And this cove directly below it is 'Byron's Grotto.'
And this cove directly below it is 'Byron's Grotto.'
The English poet spent time here in 1822 - one of the reasons the bay is also known as 'The Gulf of the Poets.'
The English poet spent time here in 1822 - one of the reasons the bay is also known as 'The Gulf of the Poets.'
Porto Venere is a great spot for a lunch stop, and in this part of the world, it's all about the anchovies.
Porto Venere is a great spot for a lunch stop, and in this part of the world, it's all about the anchovies.
They even write books about them -'The Anchovy of the Ligurian Sea.' All we have to say about the anchovies is that they are definitely delicious!
They even write books about them -'The Anchovy of the Ligurian Sea.' All we have to say about the anchovies is that they are definitely delicious!
Time to reboard the ferry ...
Time to reboard the ferry ...
Not that ferry! That one's heading to the Cinque Terre.
Not that ferry! That one's heading to the Cinque Terre.
We're going the other way. Not quite so much interest in our itinerary, apparently. :)
We're going the other way. Not quite so much interest in our itinerary, apparently. 🙂
For us, the next stop is Palmaria, a small island just five minutes from Porto Venere.
For us, the next stop is Palmaria, a small island just five minutes from Porto Venere.
Though it's less popular, there are some good beaches here and it's a great place for a swim.
Though it's less popular, there are some good beaches here and it's a great place for a swim.
While we were travelling by ferry, others certainly weren't. In summer there are always a few 'big boats' anchored close to Porto Venere.
While we were travelling by ferry, others certainly weren't. In summer there are always a few 'big boats' anchored close to Porto Venere.
But we didn't care ... we were very happy on our little ferry. Well, reasonably happy. :) Leaving the west coast behind, we were headed for Lerici, about 10 minutes away.
But we didn't care ... we were very happy on our little ferry. Well, reasonably happy. 🙂 Leaving the west coast behind, we were headed for Lerici, about 10 minutes away.
This lovely town is the main centre on the bay's east coast.
This lovely town is the main centre on the bay's east coast.
In the 1820s, Percy Bysshe Shelley and his wife stayed near here - further impetus for the name 'Il Golfo dei Poeti.'
In the 1820s, Percy Bysshe Shelley and his wife stayed near here - further impetus for the name 'Il Golfo dei Poeti.'
 
 
 
It's said Byron would swim across the bay to visit the Shelleys. But tragically, in 1822, Shelley drowned in a boating accident just off the coast.
It's said Byron would swim across the bay to visit the Shelleys. But tragically, in 1822, Shelley drowned in a boating accident just off the coast.
We changed ferries in Lerici; this was our vessel for the onward voyage.
We changed ferries in Lerici; this was our vessel for the onward voyage.
Not much interest here either, it seems. :)
Not much interest here either, it seems. 🙂
San Terenzo - the final stop on our cruise around the bay.
San Terenzo - the final stop on our cruise around the bay.
It's another pretty - and popular - summer holiday town.
It's another pretty - and popular - summer holiday town.
Though it seemed to be mostly local holiday-makers on the beach here, too.
Though it seemed to be mostly local holiday-makers on the beach here, too.
Rather than wait for the next ferry, we decided to catch the bus for the last leg of our trip around to La Spezia at the top of the gulf.
Rather than wait for the next ferry, we decided to catch the bus for the last leg of our trip around to La Spezia at the top of the gulf.
Approaching from the east, we landed in a part of town we'd not seen before.
Approaching from the east, we landed in a part of town we'd not seen before.
 
Happily, it enabled us to enjoy these beautiful buildings.
Happily, it enabled us to enjoy these beautiful buildings.
 
 
Finally, after a lovely day on the bay, and just before we jumped the bus home to Fezzano, one more treat awaited us. We spotted these fabulous outdoor chairs! They'd be great on the balcony at home ... maybe there's a way to fit a couple in the suitcase ...
Finally, after a lovely day on the bay, and just before we jumped the bus home to Fezzano, one more treat awaited us. We spotted these fabulous outdoor chairs! They'd be great on the balcony at home ... maybe there's a way to fit a couple in the suitcase ...