Ascoli Piceno, Marche

If you’re looking at a map of Italy, Marche is one of those regions that’s located about middle, right. With Umbria at its back, Marche looks east towards the Adriatic Sea.

This is not one of the country’s most popular regions for visitors and we’ve certainly not done much travelling here. In fact on a recent excursion we had intended to cross into Marche and just keep going, but then we happened upon the town of Ascoli Piceno.

Sited at the confluence of two rivers, this provincial capital is surrounded by mountains on three sides and bordered by a couple of national parks. So in terms of location its credentials are great. But it was the town itself that, literally, stopped us in our tracks.

Ascoli Piceno is striking. The main square, Piazza del Popolo, is one of the prettiest we’ve seen. There’s a symmetry to the architecture here that creates a sense of space and proportion. Being in the square ‘feels’ good. Much of the historic centre was built using local travertine marble, so it’s all bright and shiny too. As well as an attractive physical environment, there’s a vibrant cultural life in Ascoli Piceno that gives the town a real energy. There’s a lot to like here.

And yet, even at the height of the tourist season, local Ascolani still seem to outnumber visitors by a long way. Maybe that’s part of the appeal.

The main square, Piazza del Popolo, with its beautiful Renaissance buildings and spectacular travertine marble paving

The most dominant building in the square is Palazzo dei Capitani (the Palace of the People's Captains)

Built in the 13th century, it was the seat of the city's administration

The Church of San Francesco sits at the northern end of the piazza

The church was consecrated in 1371 after a construction timeframe of about 130 years

A side entrance to the church is dedicated to Pope Julius II

Beside San Francesco stands the Loggia dei Mercanti, built in the 16th century by the local Wool Guild (Corporazione della Lana)

The square's eastern side is lined with a lovely arcade of shops and restaurants

Tucked away in another corner is the historic Cafe Meletti

Piazzo del Popolo is the perfect spot for aperitivo and people watching

And as dusk arrives, the square's travertine marble paving becomes beautifully reflective

Nearby Piazza dell'Arengo, with the Cathedral of Saint Emygdius at one end

Saint Emygdius, the city's patron saint, is said to be the protector from earthquakes

Sadly Ascoli, like many other central Italian towns, was damaged by the 2016 earthquake

The 12th century Romanesque Baptistery stands beside the cathedral

Outside the main squares, just wandering the streets of Ascoli is a visual feast

It's compact and flat, and after the hill towns of Umbria, that's a relief

But architecture is not the only attraction here

Typical local foods include veal-stuffed olives and 'fritto Ascolano', literally fried cream! What's not to love?