We almost missed Bergamo, despite the fact that the city is very close to Milan and the northern lakes. Then again there’s a lot to see in this part of Italy, which is probably why it took us so long to get to Bergamo.

This is a city in two parts. The medieval Città Alta, or Upper City, is perched in the foothills of the Italian Alps. The rest of Bergamo – the ‘new’ part – sits on the plain below and is called, appropriately, Città Basse, the Lower City.

 

Bergamo's Città Alta (in the soft, foggy light characteristic of this time of year)
Bergamo's Città Alta (in the soft, foggy light characteristic of this time of year)
We spent almost all our time in Bergamo in the Città Alta
We spent almost all our time in Bergamo in the Città Alta
The easy way up; the funicular service between the upper and lower cities was started 120 years ago (it's still a welcome alternative to shanks's pony and more fun than the bus)
The easy way up; the funicular service between the upper and lower cities was started 120 years ago (it's still a welcome alternative to shanks's pony and more fun than the bus)
Bergamo has existed for a long time; in 49 BC it became a Roman municipality (the population around that time was 10,000; today it's about 120,000)
Bergamo has existed for a long time; in 49 BC it became a Roman municipality (the population around that time was 10,000; today it's about 120,000)
Piazza Vecchia - the heart of Città Alta in every sense
Piazza Vecchia - the heart of Città Alta in every sense
In one corner stands the Campanone, the Civic Tower of Bergamo
In one corner stands the Campanone, the Civic Tower of Bergamo
And just behind the piazza are two of the city's most important churches - on the left the Basilica Santa Maria Maggiore and, on the right, Cappella Colleoni
And just behind the piazza are two of the city's most important churches - on the left the Basilica Santa Maria Maggiore and, on the right, Cappella Colleoni
This elaborate chapel and mausoleum was built in the 1470s by one of Bergamo's most powerful citizens
This elaborate chapel and mausoleum was built in the 1470s by one of Bergamo's most powerful citizens
Bartolomeo Colleoni, who boasted his ability to beat anyone in a fight, incorporated his family crest into the gates of the church; the crest includes three roundish shapes that Colleoni liked to think represented his unfailing courage (there's a synonym for Colleoni in Italian that explains this) - the balls on the crest are shiny because apparently people rub them for luck as they enter!
Bartolomeo Colleoni, who boasted his ability to beat anyone in a fight, incorporated his family crest into the gates of the church; the crest includes three roundish shapes that Colleoni liked to think represented his unfailing courage (there's a synonym for Colleoni in Italian that explains this) - the balls on the crest are shiny because apparently people rub them for luck as they enter!
Next door to Capella Colleoni, the Santa Maria Maggiore Basilica is extraordinary
Next door to Capella Colleoni, the Santa Maria Maggiore Basilica is extraordinary
In stark contrast to its very plain exterior, the interior of the church is adorned with spectacular frescoes, tapestries, parquetry and paintings
In stark contrast to its very plain exterior, the interior of the church is adorned with spectacular frescoes, tapestries, parquetry and paintings
Behind the Basilica and Capella Colleoni, this is the entrance to the old Bishop's Palace
Behind the Basilica and Capella Colleoni, this is the entrance to the old Bishop's Palace
The 13th and 14th century frescoes here are remarkable; it still amazes us to be able to wander through a simple doorway and find beauty such as this
The 13th and 14th century frescoes here are remarkable; it still amazes us to be able to wander through a simple doorway and find beauty such as this
Not far away, in the corner of a little park, sits this wonderful public washhouse built in 1881
Not far away, in the corner of a little park, sits this wonderful public washhouse built in 1881
Despite the fact that this one was constructed of white marble, the 'lavatorio' reminded us of the concrete tubs our mothers washed in at home when we were kids
Despite the fact that this one was constructed of white marble, the 'lavatorio' reminded us of the concrete tubs our mothers washed in at home when we were kids
Like every Italian region and city, Bergamo has its local food specialties
Like every Italian region and city, Bergamo has its local food specialties
The yellow cakes in the window here are Polenta e Osèi (Polenta and Birds) - they're the sweet version of a traditional dish
The yellow cakes in the window here are Polenta e Osèi (Polenta and Birds) - they're the sweet version of a traditional dish
In this case sponge cake is covered with yellow marzipan and sugar and the 'birds' on top are chocolate covered marzipan (we weren't tempted to try these or the original songbirds-baked-in-a-pie dish)
In this case sponge cake is covered with yellow marzipan and sugar and the 'birds' on top are chocolate covered marzipan (we weren't tempted to try these or the original songbirds-baked-in-a-pie dish)
Instead, on that day, Bergamo's autumn leaves provided all the golden sweetness we needed
Instead, on that day, Bergamo's autumn leaves provided all the golden sweetness we needed
In the end we were very pleased not to have missed this lovely city
In the end we were very pleased not to have missed this lovely city