When we first had the idea of getting out on the Aegean Sea for a couple of hours we didn’t expect to end up on a fishing trawler in choppy water at dawn. And yet that’s what happened.

Yannis, a local fisherman, had offered to take us out on his regular morning run to pull the nets and we’d leapt at the chance, with nary a thought for my historically wobbly sea legs.

A couple of days later it was still dark when we arrived at the dock, and as we stepped aboard the Nikitas, Yannis assured us – with the confidence of someone who knows – there was a beautiful morning ahead. Moments later the first mate released the lines and our seafaring adventure was underway.