The Rioni of Rome

From its earliest days Rome has been divided into a number of districts. In the 6th century BC the king Servius Tullius decreed the city to have 4 districts or rioni (from the Latin regiones) and for the next 2,500 years or so – as the city enjoyed periods of extraordinary growth and survived devastating destruction – the number, names and boundaries of Rome’s districts varied according to the administrative and religious inclinations of its rulers at the time.

In the late 16th century the city was organised into 14 rioni, by 1929 there were 22. Rome’s historic centre today is divided into those same 22 districts. As the city continued to expand, new areas were designated quartieri, suburbi and zone (furthest from the centre), but no new rioni were added.

As well as having its own name, number and coat of arms, each rione also has a distinctive character. We live in Rione I, Monti (named for the hills within its boundaries). It’s one of the city’s oldest residential areas and includes many significant archaeological sites.

Monti’s history is very much working class, but these days the district is sought-after real estate and the local streets and lanes are filled with family-run trattorias and trendy wine bars.

We’re really enjoying our explorations of Rome’s neighbourhoods (and occasional excursions out into the quartieri). Most mornings we open the map, choose a district and start walking. And as we wander it seems that around almost every corner there’s something new – or old – to delight us. It’s a wonderful way to get to know Rome and its rioni.

Map of Republican Rome (509 BC - 27 BC); the red dot is where our building is located today

This is a current map of Rome's rioni and quarteri (outside the yellow area); to give you an idea of distance, it's about a 2km walk from the Colesseum to the Pantheon, and a further to 2kms to the Vatican

The city's old street signs often indicate the rione - RI (Monti) on the top right

Our building in Via Mecenate

And not far away, Palazzo Brancaccio where some scenes for the film 'Roman Holiday' were shot

Trajan's Baths, an archaeological site in the park around the corner from us; a huge bathing and leisure complex, the Baths were in use from around 104 AD

The Monti fountain (depicting the three hills) was commissioned in 1927, and behind it is Porta Esquilina, one of the original city gates (4 BC); Cicero spoke of entering Rome through this gate

In the Middle Ages, the inhabitants of Monti had their own dialect and often fought with people from other rioni

Life here today is much more peaceful

But behind the main streets, it can seem as though little has changed for centuries

Michelangelo's Moses sculpture in the Church of San Pietro in Vincoli in Monti

When he started work on the sculpture, Michelangelo had Moses facing directly ahead, but decided later to change the design; apparently Moses' cheekbone was originally his nose

Via dei Coronari in Ponte, Rione V; this street has existed since the days of ancient Rome

Via dei Coronari has retained its Renaissance character and is one of Rome's prettiest streets

Today many of the 15th and 16th century buildings are home to art and antique dealers

Over on the west bank of the Tiber River is Trastevere, Rione XIII

It's a lively, fun district filled with artizans shops, craft beer pubs and great restaurants

Trastevere literally means 'beyond the Tevere' (Tiber)

We've had a couple of terrific meals here

The district has the feel of a village

It's a place we keep coming back to

Again some of the best parts are off the beaten track

Apparently there are 45 churches in Trastevere

One of the oldest in all of Rome is the Basilica of Santa Maria in Trastevere

Further out, in Quartiere Trieste, is one of the city's most unusual neighbourhoods, Coppedè

Passing through the entrance gate is like entering a different world

The area was created by architect, Gino Coppedè, between 1913 and 1927

The style here seems to be a lot of Art Nouveau, with bits of classical Greek, Baroque, Gothic and even Medieval added for good measure

The result is certainly different but also strangely compelling

Some say Coppedè's designs are Rome's answer to Gaudí's work in Barcelona; others don't 🙂