A Visit to Marche

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Marche is a region on Italy’s central east coast, so it faces the morning sun and the sparkling waters of the Adriatic Sea. It’s a place of outstanding natural beauty and fascinating history, but international visitors aren’t drawn to it in the same way as they are to Marche’s closest neighbours – Emilia-Romagna, Tuscany, Umbria, Lazio and Abruzzo.

Certainly, people are attracted to the remarkable city of Urbino in Marche – for good reason – but the region has never really been on the ‘must-do’ list, making it an ideal place to visit, then, for those who like their travel slow.

Our trip to Marche this time was at the invitation of friends, Armanda and Giuseppe. Again, many of you will remember this lovely couple from our wedding. Along with Tina, Armanda is a founding member of the ‘coffee and conversation’ club – where Tina and Armanda practise their English, and I attempt to improve my Italian.

The lovely city of Recanati in Marche is Armanda’s home town and we were fortunate enough to see it for the first time with Armanda and Guiseppe as our guides.

Located along a high ridge in the Marche hinterland, Recanati enjoys sweeping views to the coast in front, and to the Sibillini Mountains behind.

The town's rich history is evident everywhere you go here.

Recanati was founded around 1150 AD.

In 1290, it proclaimed itself an independent republic.

And in 1798 it was conquered by Napoleon.

 

We were so fortunate to have the hometown girl - and her husband - as our guides.

This is the house in which Armanda was born (on the second floor) and where she and Guiseppe still live when they come down to Recanati from Bologna.

Armanda's fun and fabulous sister, Chiarella, still lives in her home above Armanda and Guiseppe's.

Recanati is best-known as the city of that superstar Italian scholar, Giacomo Leopardi.

Born to a noble family, here in this house in 1798, Leopardi is beloved as the greatest Italian poet of the 19th century.

And right next door, the Leopardi family church. The young scholar's father amassed a huge collection of books, and opened the family's library to the people of the town so they, like his own children, could 'improve their culture.'

Leopardi is revered in Recanati, and excerpts from the poet's works are displayed in the streets for all to enjoy.

At least for those who can read Italian.

Even on this city wall; it's a place where Leopardi often came to reflect. The quote is from 'L'Infinito', one of his most famous works - 'Always dear to me was this steep hill.'

Wandering through Recanati's main piazza with Armanda means stopping for a chat with what seems like every second person - and having some of them join for an impromptu aperitivo party. It's very clear Armanda and Guiseppe are well-known and well-loved here.

Recanati's mediaeval Civic Tower - the Torre del Borgo. It's possible - though not easy - to climb to the top.

The effort is worth it though, for views like these.

 

Quite coincidentally, Recanati is also Franco's home town, and he and Armanda knew each other as they were growing up.

The town also boasts a very good art gallery which houses works by the Italian Renaissance painter Lorenzo Lotto, including this one, 'Recanati Annunciation.'

Recanati is just a 15-minute drive from the city of Loreto, an important pilgrimage site for Roman Catholics.

And here's why ... this small stone house inside the Basilica della Santa Casa is said to be the very house in which the Virgin Mary was born.

It was carried here by angels in 1294.

After a short visit to Loreto, we carried ourselves down to the coast, to Porto Recanati. It was a glorious day, and Armanda and Guiseppe had lined up a fantastic little restaurant right on the beach.

Not a bad spot for lunch! And a perfect way to end our wonderful visit to Marche.