Almost since the start of our adventure five months ago, Greg and I had been thinking about spending Christmas somewhere in the mountains among the snow. It was what we’d been dreaming of – un bianco Natale – and here in the little town of Ortisei in Italy’s far north, that’s exactly what we got.

The celebrations kicked off on Christmas Eve. The church bells began ringing well before midnight, summoning parishioners and visitors to celebrate the traditional Mass. By the time the service started the church was full to overflowing.

The Mass was conducted in two languages (the priest switching effortlessly between German and Italian), and the church’s wonderful orchestra and choir performed Diabelli’s Pastoralmessa. But it was their performance of Stille Nacht at the end of the Mass that made it really something special. To be gathered there in a 300-year-old church on Christmas Eve in the middle of winter, and to be lifted up by the soaring beauty of those voices … the whole experience was an unforgettable gift.

On Christmas Day, after lots of lovely Skyping back and forth with family, we went for a walk along one of the pathways around Ortisei. It was great to see so many people out and about enjoying the day together. Then in the evening we headed off to a fabulous dinner at the town’s Michelin star restaurant.

This was a Christmas unlike any we’ve had before, and though we were physically a long way from family and friends, our beautiful white Christmas in Ortisei is one we’ll long remember.

 

Ortisei
Ortisei is located in the Val Gardena, a small valley about 30 kilometres east of Bolzano
Ortisei is located in the Val Gardena, a small valley about 30 kilometres east of Bolzano
That's Ortisei in the middle of the frame, and Santa Cristina just a bit closer to the camera; the third main town in the valley is Selva (out of shot behind the camera)
That's Ortisei in the middle of the frame, and Santa Cristina just a bit closer to the camera; the third main town in the valley is Selva (out of shot behind the camera)
Ortisei is everything you imagine a white Christmas village to be
Ortisei is everything you imagine a white Christmas village to be
It's surrounded by the Dolomite mountains
It's surrounded by the Dolomite mountains
Ortisei's main street (we were staying just up on the right)
Ortisei's main street (we were staying just up on the right)
The town was beautifully decorated
The town was beautifully decorated
There were Christmas trees on every corner
There were Christmas trees on every corner
And literally dozens of nativity scenes like this one
And literally dozens of nativity scenes like this one
Each evening before Christmas, choirs performed in the town's streets and squares
Each evening before Christmas, choirs performed in the town's streets and squares
Piazza San Antonio
Piazza San Antonio
Little Christmas stalls added to the atmosphere
Little Christmas stalls added to the atmosphere
Selling decorations and last-minute gifts
Selling decorations and last-minute gifts
There were also lots of stalls selling food and hot drinks; this was our 'local'
There were also lots of stalls selling food and hot drinks; this was our 'local'
The view from the window of our little apartment
The view from the window of our little apartment
On a snowy day
On a snowy day
We didn't have a Christmas tree (at least not one inside the house), but we did have a Christmas corner
We didn't have a Christmas tree (at least not one inside the house), but we did have a Christmas corner
This is the town's parish church where Christmas Eve Mass was held
This is the town's parish church where Christmas Eve Mass was held
Dedicated to St Ulrich, the church was built in the 1790s
Dedicated to St Ulrich, the church was built in the 1790s
The path we followed on our Christmas Day walk
The path we followed on our Christmas Day walk
And the same path a couple of days later
And the same path a couple of days later
Families catching up in the local playground on Christmas Day
Families catching up in the local playground on Christmas Day
Now why didn't this guy make it into the official Christmas pic?
Now why didn't this guy make it into the official Christmas pic?
Young skiers on the slopes of the Ortisei ski school
Young skiers on the slopes of the Ortisei ski school
Other places have bike racks; here there are ski racks
Other places have bike racks; here there are ski racks
Natives of this valley speak Ladin, a 2,000 year old language; there are only 28,000 thousand people now who speak Ladin but there are renewed efforts to ensure the language survives
Natives of this valley speak Ladin, a 2,000 year old language; there are only 28,000 thousand people now who speak Ladin but there are renewed efforts to ensure the language survives
Santa Cristina
Selva