There’s history in Belfast. In the city’s narrow alleyways that date back to the 1600s. In St George’s, the covered Victorian market built in the 1890s. And in the shipyards that launched the Titanic in 1911.

Northern Ireland’s more recent history is found in the memories of its people. In the young man who stopped and offered to take a picture of us, describing the street he knew as a boy when it was bombed and brutal. In the woman who’d worked in the Courts Precinct for most of her life, recalling her refusal to evacuate in defiance of bomb threats. And in the taxi driver calling greetings to friends in the street, then quietly remembering their brothers and fathers and neighbours who were killed.

Belfast’s history can never be overlooked, but the city today is bustling and the people are friendly and fun. They’ll stop you in the street for a chat, and tell you a joke as quick as look at you. And when they’re done, you’re sure to walk away smiling.