There’s a place on Iceland’s south coast where the huge Vatnajökull Glacier reaches out to touch the ocean. At the edge of a large lagoon, great chunks of ice break away from the face of the glacier and float out to sea.

Impressive enough. But then wind and tide push the ice up onto the beach until the black sand is littered with sparkling sculptures. It’s an unforgettable image.

 

The Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon - icebergs on their way to the sea
The Jökulsárlón glacier lagoon - icebergs on their way to the sea
Some of these icebergs are huge (even then only 10% is visible above the water); it's because the ice is so thick at the edge of the glacier
Some of these icebergs are huge (even then only 10% is visible above the water); it's because the ice is so thick at the edge of the glacier
When ice is first exposed to air it's bright blue (this piece would be an iceberg that has recently flipped over); the black ice has come from the bottom of the glacier (where it has ground along collecting volcanic ash and dirt )
When ice is first exposed to air it's bright blue (this piece would be an iceberg that has recently flipped over); the black ice has come from the bottom of the glacier (where it has ground along collecting volcanic ash and dirt )
The mouth of the Jökulsá River
The mouth of the Jökulsá River
And around the corner, ice washed up onto the beach
And around the corner, ice washed up onto the beach
It's amazing to see waves breaking onto blocks of ice
It's amazing to see waves breaking onto blocks of ice
Little wonder this place is known as Diamond Beach
Little wonder this place is known as Diamond Beach
Of course the colours and shapes of the ice are ever-changing
Of course the colours and shapes of the ice are ever-changing
 
 
 
This one looked like some kind of prehistoric fish
This one looked like some kind of prehistoric fish
The Vatnajökull ice cap has 30 sub-glaciers - themselves giant rivers of ice - that reach out into the landscape
The Vatnajökull ice cap has 30 sub-glaciers - themselves giant rivers of ice - that reach out into the landscape
Icelanders have names for each of them - this is Fjallsárlón glacier
Icelanders have names for each of them - this is Fjallsárlón glacier
It's possible to take a boat tour in some of the glacial lagoons; we joined this one at Fjallsárlón
It's possible to take a boat tour in some of the glacial lagoons; we joined this one at Fjallsárlón
We had to don flotation suits and life jackets, but the guide assured us he hadn't yet lost anyone overboard (that water is 250m deep)
We had to don flotation suits and life jackets, but the guide assured us he hadn't yet lost anyone overboard (that water is 250m deep)
It was amazing being so close to the ice but, due in large part to the climate catastrophe, the glaciers here are retreating at an unprecedented rate
It was amazing being so close to the ice but, due in large part to the climate catastrophe, the glaciers here are retreating at an unprecedented rate
The guide explained that his father and grandfather had farmed this area - he remembers them walking sheep across the ice from one paddock to another - but in those days there was a lot more ice to cross
The guide explained that his father and grandfather had farmed this area - he remembers them walking sheep across the ice from one paddock to another - but in those days there was a lot more ice to cross
In summer chunks of ice break off the glacier every couple of days - it's why they don't take the boats too close to the face of the glacier
In summer chunks of ice break off the glacier every couple of days - it's why they don't take the boats too close to the face of the glacier
500 year old ice - that's how long it takes for a section of ice to travel down from the top of the glacier and end up in the lagoon
500 year old ice - that's how long it takes for a section of ice to travel down from the top of the glacier and end up in the lagoon
From one extreme to another - there are hundreds of geothermal pools scattered throughout Iceland; in some the water is almost 100C and signs warn people to stay clear
From one extreme to another - there are hundreds of geothermal pools scattered throughout Iceland; in some the water is almost 100C and signs warn people to stay clear
In other places the water temperature is more manageable - between 34C and 40C; just right for a dip
In other places the water temperature is more manageable - between 34C and 40C; just right for a dip
We visited a few of these hot springs; it was fun to see lifeguards decked out like this - no budgie smugglers for these guys!
We visited a few of these hot springs; it was fun to see lifeguards decked out like this - no budgie smugglers for these guys!
Infrastructure has been built around some of the springs; they're well maintained and managed
Infrastructure has been built around some of the springs; they're well maintained and managed
These pools at Laugarvatn are right beside a lake
These pools at Laugarvatn are right beside a lake
So between dips in the hot pools it's possible to refresh yourself with a quick swim in the almost icy water
So between dips in the hot pools it's possible to refresh yourself with a quick swim in the almost icy water
Greg did that; I didn't
Greg did that; I didn't
Driving in Iceland is easy and there are long stretches of nothing but spectacular landscape
Driving in Iceland is easy and there are long stretches of nothing but spectacular landscape
Which seems to be constantly changing
Which seems to be constantly changing
 
The mighty Gullfoss waterfall on the Hvítá River
The mighty Gullfoss waterfall on the Hvítá River
It's one of the country's most popular destinations
It's one of the country's most popular destinations
And a thrilling demonstration of nature's power
And a thrilling demonstration of nature's power
We can only imagine what an experience it must be to see waterfalls like Iguazu or Victoria or Niagra
We can only imagine what an experience it must be to see waterfalls like Iguazu or Victoria or Niagra
Of course there are thousands of waterfalls in Iceland - not all are as impressive as Gullfoss, but each one is striking
Of course there are thousands of waterfalls in Iceland - not all are as impressive as Gullfoss, but each one is striking
This is Sisters falls just above Kirkjubæjarklaustur; we stayed in this village for a couple of nights (but don't ask us to pronounce that name!) :)
This is Sisters falls just above Kirkjubæjarklaustur; we stayed in this village for a couple of nights (but don't ask us to pronounce that name!) 🙂
Skogafoss waterfall marked the end of our trip
Skogafoss waterfall marked the end of our trip
It was a pretty good finale
It was a pretty good finale
Remarkable contrasts and incredible beauty - we'll long remember our visit to this wonderful country
Remarkable contrasts and incredible beauty - we'll long remember our visit to this wonderful country