Greek Island Idyll

How could we visit Greece without also visiting a Greek island, we asked ourselves. It was a question that begged another – which island should we choose?

We’d seen the pictures – Santorini, Crete, Corfu, Mykonos – they all looked amazing. But we were after something a little less well-known, let’s say a little less … popular. And it had to be just one island because, rather than move around, we wanted to settle into a single location for a few weeks.

Eventually we decided on Amorgos. A nine-hour ferry ride from Athens, Amorgos attracts a lot of tourists in the summer months – they’re almost all Greek. During the rest of the year, though, it’s pretty much ‘business as usual’ for the island’s small population. As it happened, that was just the way we liked it.

Amorgos is an island in the Small Cyclades group, east of Santorini

We stayed in the village of Katapola, the island's main port

Our little unit was in the old Customs House (first floor of the building on the far left - two light blue doors and balcony railings); it was a wonderful location and not only because the kebab shop was right downstairs!

From the balcony, looking north towards the harbour entrance

And the view across to the other side

Katapola has a couple of supermarkets

They're well stocked - especially on those days when the ferry arrives

A bakery

Selling all manner of delicious treats (the trays on the tables are filled with different varieties of freshly-baked biscuits)

Great tavernas

Because we were on Amorgos before 'the season' started, the only places open were those frequented by locals

This was one of our favourites - no need to bother with a menu, here's what's on today (in other words here's what's available from the butcher across the way or what the fishermen brought in this morning)

And there's a beach too

Amorgos is beautiful, friendly and - at this time of year - quiet; right up until the last few days of our stay we were the only tourists in Katapola

The annual Carnival day took place while we were there; one Saturday morning families from all over the island gathered at the waterfront

There was a lot of dressing up

And a lot of dancing; it was a wonderful celebration

There was a lovely sense of community on the island and it wasn't long before we felt right at home

Katapola has the look of a seaside village

Which is appropriate really as Amorgos is in the middle of the Aegean Sea

And it's pretty, with the typical blue and white buildings reflecting both the summer heat and the colours of the national flag

Behind the harbour, the little streets climb up the hillsides

There are lots of great hikes on the island, even around Katapola itself there are plenty of good trails

To reach this little church we had to walk along the pebble beach at low tide

And we ventured further afield too

Aegiali, north of Katapola, is the island's second port

And high up in the centre of the island, this is the capital, Chora

During one of our visits to Chora we found another festival in progress

Music, dancing, food and drink - Greek people certainly know how to throw a party

The little 'Panda' that took us around the island; the car hire process was interesting - sign a piece of paper at the beginning and then whenever you want the car, just pick up the key from the lovely man at the supermarket (or if the supermarket is unexpectedly closed, don't worry, the key will be in the ignition so just grab the car and head off)

The permanent population of Amorgos is around 2,000 - the number of goats on the island is much higher; the precious goats provide cheese and meat

The island's other valuable residents are the donkeys

Amorgos has few roads so donkeys are the only means of getting supplies up and down the steep hills

These builder's donkeys were ferrying materials to a site at the top of the village

We saw the same team working in Chora, too

The island's donkeys are cared for and treated well - they're a valuable resource

This happy little guy - starring on his own Amorgos postcard - belongs to the local butcher

Clear blue water under (mostly) clear blue skies

Amorgos was everything we had hoped it would be

And more