Or is it? Maybe it’s about the location, too. And the company. Or a combination of any or all of these factors …

Whatever the question, though, the answer is always the same. To enjoy incredible Italian food, in spectacular surroundings and the company of wonderful friends, is an experience like no other.

 

It started here - La Pia, a small restaurant in La Spezia that’s been operating since 1887.
It started here - La Pia, a small restaurant in La Spezia that’s been operating since 1887.
We’d come on the advice of Elio and Rita - Elio’s mother ate at La Pia as a girl in the 1930s.
We’d come on the advice of Elio and Rita - Elio’s mother ate at La Pia as a girl in the 1930s.
Almost a century later, we were here to sample a regional specialty.
Almost a century later, we were here to sample a regional specialty.
La Pia is famous for its pizza and farinata.
La Pia is famous for its pizza and farinata.
A kind of unleaved bread, farinata is made with only chickpea flour, water, olive oil and salt - cheap and available ingredients. It's what was known as ‘il pane dei poveri' - the bread of the poor - and eaten by generations of Italians in this particular part of Liguria.
A kind of unleaved bread, farinata is made with only chickpea flour, water, olive oil and salt - cheap and available ingredients. It's what was known as ‘il pane dei poveri' - the bread of the poor - and eaten by generations of Italians in this particular part of Liguria.
This is not a great photo, but you get the idea. The farinata mixture is poured onto huge trays and cooked for a few minutes at around 260°C in the wood-fired oven.
This is not a great photo, but you get the idea. The farinata mixture is poured onto huge trays and cooked for a few minutes at around 260°C in the wood-fired oven.
When I told the manager the story of Elio's mother having come here as a girl, he was proud, and moved. It meant a lot to him. La Pia is essentially unchanged in 130 years, he said. Elio’s mother ate food cooked in those brick ovens. Incredible, isn’t it?
When I told the manager the story of Elio's mother having come here as a girl, he was proud, and moved. It meant a lot to him. La Pia is essentially unchanged in 130 years, he said. Elio’s mother ate food cooked in those brick ovens. Incredible, isn’t it?
This is another regional speciality (on the right), and another form of 'il pane dei poveri' - panigacci. Again, they’re comprised of the simplest ingredients - flour, water, salt.
This is another regional speciality (on the right), and another form of 'il pane dei poveri' - panigacci. Again, they’re comprised of the simplest ingredients - flour, water, salt.
In this case, terracotta plates are heated to extraordinary temperatures over an open fire, then the mixture is poured and the plates are stacked eight or ten high.
In this case, terracotta plates are heated to extraordinary temperatures over an open fire, then the mixture is poured and the plates are stacked eight or ten high.
The panigacci cook between the plates. Then the stack is turned over, the clay plates are separated and the panigacci are ready to go. Loaded up with salumi and cheese, these are absolutely delicious.
The panigacci cook between the plates. Then the stack is turned over, the clay plates are separated and the panigacci are ready to go. Loaded up with salumi and cheese, these are absolutely delicious.
We discovered panigacci on the way to this place - La Vecchia Compiano - a wonderful restaurant next to Compiano Castle, not far from Borgotaro.
We discovered panigacci on the way to this place - La Vecchia Compiano - a wonderful restaurant next to Compiano Castle, not far from Borgotaro.
The castle, the village and the restaurant are perched on top of a mountain, with spectacular views to the valley below.
The castle, the village and the restaurant are perched on top of a mountain, with spectacular views to the valley below.
With Rita and Elio, limbering up for dinner.
With Rita and Elio, limbering up for dinner.
Our meal here was extraordinary - fabulous food, amazing location and wonderful company. Three out of three!
Our meal here was extraordinary - fabulous food, amazing location and wonderful company. Three out of three!
Next stop was La Tortuga - The Turtle - at Cadimare, one village north of Fezzano. Lovely friends of Rita and Elio - Barbara and Alvaro - joined too. It was a great night.
Next stop was La Tortuga - The Turtle - at Cadimare, one village north of Fezzano. Lovely friends of Rita and Elio - Barbara and Alvaro - joined too. It was a great night.
Claudio, the owner, prepared an incredible meal of orata - a type of local sea bream, otherwise known as the 'queen of the sea'.
Claudio, the owner, prepared an incredible meal of orata - a type of local sea bream, otherwise known as the 'queen of the sea'.
As you can imagine, it was amazing.
As you can imagine, it was amazing.
After we'd ordered dessert (already full to overflowing from seafood antipasti and the orata), Claudio hurried back to the table. ‘Delay the dessert,’ he said, ‘I have another idea for you.’ 15 minutes later, he returned with a dish of spaghetti, oil, pepperoncino and parmigiana. So simple, yet so delicious.
After we'd ordered dessert (already full to overflowing from seafood antipasti and the orata), Claudio hurried back to the table. ‘Delay the dessert,’ he said, ‘I have another idea for you.’ 15 minutes later, he returned with a dish of spaghetti, oil, pepperoncino and parmigiana. So simple, yet so delicious.
This unassuming little bar is perched high above the Cinque Terre village of Riomaggiore.
This unassuming little bar is perched high above the Cinque Terre village of Riomaggiore.
It doesn't look much, until you walk around the corner and begin to descend the stairs.
It doesn't look much, until you walk around the corner and begin to descend the stairs.
Then this vista opens up before your eyes.
Then this vista opens up before your eyes.
It's absolutely spectacular!
It's absolutely spectacular!
The coast - and the villages of the Cinque Terre - stretch away to the north.
The coast - and the villages of the Cinque Terre - stretch away to the north.
It's an incredible location to enjoy aperitivo.
It's an incredible location to enjoy aperitivo.
Greg learning to eat 'lupini' - local beans that are a common accompaniment to aperitivo here. The idea is to bite off the base, then suck the bean itself out of the skin. Delicious.
Greg learning to eat 'lupini' - local beans that are a common accompaniment to aperitivo here. The idea is to bite off the base, then suck the bean itself out of the skin. Delicious.
Does it get better than this?
Does it get better than this?
Post-aperitivo, we ended up here, at the little village of Biassa in the mountains behind the Cinque Terre.
Post-aperitivo, we ended up here, at the little village of Biassa in the mountains behind the Cinque Terre.
La Locanda del Gallese - the Welsh Inn. (Who knows?).
La Locanda del Gallese - the Welsh Inn. (Who knows?).
 
It's a wonderful trattoria that is a favourite of locals - and now us as well.
It's a wonderful trattoria that is a favourite of locals - and now us as well.
And truly, the food was incredible. Tortellini alla carne - beef tortellini - a specialty of the house.
And truly, the food was incredible. Tortellini alla carne - beef tortellini - a specialty of the house.
And this dish - rabbit with potatoes, olives and pine nuts - was up there with the best we've ever eaten. The freshest ingredients simply prepared, in amazing locations, with wonderful friends. Experiences for a lifetime.
And this dish - rabbit with potatoes, olives and pine nuts - was up there with the best we've ever eaten. The freshest ingredients simply prepared, in amazing locations, with wonderful friends. Experiences for a lifetime.