Monopoli, Puglia

Puglia is a region on the Adriatic coast in the area often referred to as the ‘heel’ of Italy’s ‘boot’. Described variously as a ‘hidden gem’, ‘underrated treasure’ and ‘best-kept secret’, Puglia isn’t one of the country’s most popular destinations. For a start, it’s in the south.

A bit like the Sydney-Melbourne rivalry, there’s a ‘thing’ in Italy between the north (Milan, Florence, Rome etc) and the south (basically the rest). Certainly the economic differences between the two are significant, but there are social and cultural distinctions too. Put simply, people from the north are said to be generally serious and practical, whereas those from the south are characterised as being more relaxed and easy going.

So what’s been our experience so far? Without a doubt, the people we’ve encountered here in Puglia are friendly and welcoming. In the little seaside town of Monopoli where we’re based, a visit to any of the local shops, for example, is also the chance for a chat.

On our first day here the manager of the little supermarket around the corner spent more than half-an-hour advising us on the best restaurants in the region and what we should try in each of them. (In the end he wrote it all down so we wouldn’t forget anything). And then a lady we’d seen a couple of times around town stopped us in the street to introduce herself and her husband and to welcome us to Monopoli (they also gave us tips on what to see while we’re here). After just a couple of visits to a little bar on the Piazza, the young waiter remembered our apperitivo order and now greets us like old friends. And yesterday the man in the chicken shop (the polleria) put a roast chicken aside for us in case we popped back later to see if they were ready (we did).

We’ve been in Puglia for less than a week, but already we know it’s a place we’re going to enjoy.

Monopoli (our house is on the far right, almost on the point)

From the roof terrace - it's a wonderful spot

Looking towards the south

And to the north; the entrance to the fishing port is on the left

Monopoli's blue and red timber fishing boats are called 'gozzi'

These days most are powered by outboard motors, but some of the old fishermen still use oars

Generations of men have fished from this port

Whether the fleet is heading out in the morning or returning with the catch in the evening...

...there's a crowd to follow the action

Baiting the nets is a time-consuming job

One prawn on each hook

Monopoli was founded in 545 AD and has survived many sieges and occupations through the centuries

The harbour is in the heart of the old town

Castello di Carlo V was constructed at the entrance to the port in 1500

Monopoli itself is small and very pretty

The population is around 50,000

But only a fraction of that number live in the old town

Our house is on this street

The local broom salesman announcing his arrival with a chant of 'le sco..le sco..le scope'; on this day business was brisk

Of course the seafood available here is delicious

And as an alternative, this is the best pizza restaurant in town 🙂

Monopoli's Basilica of the Madonna della Madia; in 1117 construction work on the cathedral had stalled for a lack of roof beams

But a raft carrying an icon of the Madonna drifted into Monopoli harbour, and the beams from the raft were used to complete the construction

The 'miracle' is recalled today through the presence of many images of the iconic Madonna