If the south coast of Cornwall is pretty villages and picturesque harbours, the county’s north coast is more towering cliffs and surf beaches.

We delighted in them both, but we headed to North Cornwall with a couple of specific destinations in mind.

 

For the second part of our Cornwall visit, we'd be based in Padstow, so we left Mousehole and headed north.
For the second part of our Cornwall visit, we'd be based in Padstow, so we left Mousehole and headed north.
First stop along the way was Portreath, a stretch of sandy beach between two imposing headlands.
First stop along the way was Portreath, a stretch of sandy beach between two imposing headlands.
Further north, this is Perranporth - a popular surfing beach. There were plenty of surfers in the water this day, though there wasn't much of a swell.
Further north, this is Perranporth - a popular surfing beach. There were plenty of surfers in the water this day, though there wasn't much of a swell.
We were fortunate with the weather during our visit to Cornwall - unseasonably warm days and bright blue skies (which is great for touring around, but you have to worry about why the seasons are so out of kilter).
We were fortunate with the weather during our visit to Cornwall - unseasonably warm days and bright blue skies (which is great for touring around, but you have to worry about why the seasons are so out of kilter).
By the time we arrived in the seaside town of Newquay, we had jumpers off and sunscreen on.
By the time we arrived in the seaside town of Newquay, we had jumpers off and sunscreen on.
And then we were at our next destination - Padstow.
And then we were at our next destination - Padstow.
This beautiful town is located on the estuary of the River Camel, so you have the harbour (Padstow is a working fishing port) ...
This beautiful town is located on the estuary of the River Camel, so you have the harbour (Padstow is a working fishing port) ...
... and the estuary opening to Padstow Bay and, eventually, to the Celtic Sea.
... and the estuary opening to Padstow Bay and, eventually, to the Celtic Sea.
It's an historic town that dates back to mediaeval times when Padstow was an important trading port.
It's an historic town that dates back to mediaeval times when Padstow was an important trading port.
 
Today it's another of Cornwall's most popular destinations.
Today it's another of Cornwall's most popular destinations.
And it's easy to understand why.
And it's easy to understand why.
 
This was our home for a few days, a little guest house a couple of minutes walk from the harbour.
This was our home for a few days, a little guest house a couple of minutes walk from the harbour.
And this is one of the reasons we came to Padstow - to dine at Rick Stein's Seafood Restaurant. I'd made the booking for 5:00pm.
And this is one of the reasons we came to Padstow - to dine at Rick Stein's Seafood Restaurant. I'd made the booking for 5:00pm.
In my defence, I'd looked at pictures of the restaurant (see above) and thought it would be great to sit in the window, watching the sunset over the harbour and/or sea. What I didn't know is that the windows overlook a car park.
In my defence, I'd looked at pictures of the restaurant (see above) and thought it would be great to sit in the window, watching the sunset over the harbour and/or sea. What I didn't know is that the windows overlook a car park.
But we pressed on. The salt-encrusted whole sea bass was delicious, and took us back to the last time we'd enjoyed Orata, Queen of the Sea - by the Bay of Poets in Italy. And yes, the dinner was expensive but (we keep reminding ourselves) it was an experience.
But we pressed on. The salt-encrusted whole sea bass was delicious, and took us back to the last time we'd enjoyed Orata, Queen of the Sea - by the Bay of Poets in Italy. And yes, the dinner was expensive but (we keep reminding ourselves) it was an experience.
Padstow is Rick Stein's home base, and today he owns a lot of the town. There's the Rick Stein's homewares shop ...
Padstow is Rick Stein's home base, and today he owns a lot of the town. There's the Rick Stein's homewares shop ...
Rick Stein's Cafe, Rick Stein's Fish and Chips, the pubs, the deli, the properties ... you get the idea.
Rick Stein's Cafe, Rick Stein's Fish and Chips, the pubs, the deli, the properties ... you get the idea.
But we didn't eat with Rick every night ... what do you do in Padstow when you're pining for Italy?
But we didn't eat with Rick every night ... what do you do in Padstow when you're pining for Italy?
You don't eat more pastries (well, not many more) ...
You don't eat more pastries (well, not many more) ...
But you do order pizza at the local Italian restaurant. The pizza - pulled pork and BBQ sauce - was nothing like an Italian pizza, but delicious just the same. :)
But you do order pizza at the local Italian restaurant. The pizza - pulled pork and BBQ sauce - was nothing like an Italian pizza, but delicious just the same. 🙂
One day we took a road trip up to Tintagel Castle, an historic site about an hour north of Padstow.
One day we took a road trip up to Tintagel Castle, an historic site about an hour north of Padstow.
The remains of what was a mediaeval settlement are clearly visible here. And in the 13th century, Richard, the 1st Earl of Cornwall, built a castle on the site.
The remains of what was a mediaeval settlement are clearly visible here. And in the 13th century, Richard, the 1st Earl of Cornwall, built a castle on the site.
Legend has it that King Arthur was born (and conceived!) here.
Legend has it that King Arthur was born (and conceived!) here.
Archaeologists believe that in the Middle Ages, ships sailed into this cove to unload their cargo.
Archaeologists believe that in the Middle Ages, ships sailed into this cove to unload their cargo.
That's a steep climb, even today with well-maintained steps. Imagine hauling cargo up those cliffs!
That's a steep climb, even today with well-maintained steps. Imagine hauling cargo up those cliffs!
Then, as our Cornwall visit neared its end, we moved on to Port Isaac ...
Then, as our Cornwall visit neared its end, we moved on to Port Isaac ...
... also known as Port Wenn to those of us who are 'Doc Martin' fans.
... also known as Port Wenn to those of us who are 'Doc Martin' fans.
The ITV television series was shot here over a period of 20 years (amazing, isn't it?).
The ITV television series was shot here over a period of 20 years (amazing, isn't it?).
While there's not a lot of obvious 'Doc Martin' action in the village, there is a 'Walk and Talk' tour which we joined (along with four other Australians and an English couple).
While there's not a lot of obvious 'Doc Martin' action in the village, there is a 'Walk and Talk' tour which we joined (along with four other Australians and an English couple).
It would be fair to say Port Isaac locals remain divided as to the impact 'Doc Martin' has had on the village.
It would be fair to say Port Isaac locals remain divided as to the impact 'Doc Martin' has had on the village.
Some, like Dave our tour guide, say the filming caused no disruption whatsoever. Others would disagree. Here Dave is showing us Doc Martin's house and surgery. The property is listed on Airbnb and you can pay to stay in it.
Some, like Dave our tour guide, say the filming caused no disruption whatsoever. Others would disagree. Here Dave is showing us Doc Martin's house and surgery. The property is listed on Airbnb and you can pay to stay in it.
Dave, himself a local and professional actor, appeared as an extra in many of the episodes; he was a fun tour guide. This is Louisa's school (once an actual school in real life - now a hotel and guest house) ...
Dave, himself a local and professional actor, appeared as an extra in many of the episodes; he was a fun tour guide. This is Louisa's school (once an actual school in real life - now a hotel and guest house) ...
... with the Port Wenn sign still out the back.
... with the Port Wenn sign still out the back.
And this is Mrs Tishell's pharmacy - also an ice cream and souvenir shop.
And this is Mrs Tishell's pharmacy - also an ice cream and souvenir shop.
This is the one place in the village where you can find real evidence of Doc Martin. Anyone for a bit of Doc Martin shortbread? Or a coffee cup (choose your favourite character)?
This is the one place in the village where you can find real evidence of Doc Martin. Anyone for a bit of Doc Martin shortbread? Or a coffee cup (choose your favourite character)?
How about a drink coaster? Fridge magnet? Key ring? Take your pick.
How about a drink coaster? Fridge magnet? Key ring? Take your pick.
Whether or not it has anything to do with the fame of the village, real estate here is expensive. This house - previously two flats - was sold not long ago for a million pounds. Then the new owner set about doing a complete renovation to turn it into a single home.
Whether or not it has anything to do with the fame of the village, real estate here is expensive. This house - previously two flats - was sold not long ago for a million pounds. Then the new owner set about doing a complete renovation to turn it into a single home.
That owner is one of the town's few residents. Dave is another. Today there are just 25 people living in Port Isaac - all the others have moved away or chosen to live in the 'new' part of town up on the hill behind.
That owner is one of the town's few residents. Dave is another. Today there are just 25 people living in Port Isaac - all the others have moved away or chosen to live in the 'new' part of town up on the hill behind.
And the rest of the houses in the village - there are a lot of them! - are now holiday lets.
And the rest of the houses in the village - there are a lot of them! - are now holiday lets.
So that's it - we've come to the end of our visit to beautiful Cornwall. Next, we leave the coast behind and head for rolling green hills.
So that's it - we've come to the end of our visit to beautiful Cornwall. Next, we leave the coast behind and head for rolling green hills.