Rather than fly out of Hammerfest, we decided to leave by boat. But not just any boat – we’d travel south to Bergen, Norway’s second-largest city, on the famed Hurtigruten line.

Hurtigruten ships are working vessels. For 125 years they’ve carried goods and passengers to ports up and down the coast. For many of those communities, even today, Hurtigruten remains the only regular form of access.

The word Hurtigruten means ‘fast route’ which is ironic because the 2,000 kilometre journey from Hammerfest to Bergen takes five days by ship but only a few hours by plane. We knew our southbound trip would be slow, but that was a big part of the attraction.

The Norwegian coastline has been described as one of the most beautiful voyages in the world; a slow sail to Bergen would give us a chance to see some of that dramatic coastline and to experience a little bit of Hurtigruten history.