The day began with a trip to the post office – always an adventure here, though not always a successful one.

We’d bought small gifts for our granddaughters, Aila and Billy – both of whom turn 10 in September – but previous encounters with Poste Italiane suggested it wouldn’t be easy to get the gifts home to the girls. This experience proved to be no better. The now familiar conversation went something like this …

‘We’d like to send this small package to Australia.’

‘No, you can’t send it,’ the post office person said.

Ignoring her response, I waved paperwork at the perspex window. ‘Is this the correct document to send this package to Australia?’

‘No.’

From the other end of the counter, a man who seemed to be the boss looked up from his own customer.

‘No!’ he yelled at me. ‘You can’t send that package to Australia.’ He couldn’t actually see the package from where he was sitting. ‘It’s impossible! It must be open. For the customs.’

The woman gave me one of those ‘I told you so’ shrugs, but I wasn’t done yet. Ignoring her again, I called to the boss.

‘If we open it and show you the contents, can we send it?’

‘No,’ he yelled back.

‘What if we make the declaration on this form in triplicate, as we’ve always done in the past? Would that be okay?’

‘No!’ What followed was a stream of rapid-fire Italian that I had no chance of understanding, but of which I definitely got the gist. I tried pleading.

‘Sir, I have my passport here.’ I was waving again. ‘Wouldn’t that help?’

Apparently not. Poste Italiane was not to be swayed – no presents were heading for Australia that day. Admitting defeat, we gathered up our package, paperwork and passport, and retreated to fight again another day. Which, as it happened, turned out to be the very same day, only this time it was a different battle, and on the train …

 

Our post office adventure took place in La Spezia, the city at the top of the bay that is the main gateway to the Cinque Terre.
Our post office adventure took place in La Spezia, the city at the top of the bay that is the main gateway to the Cinque Terre.
We left the post office and walked to the train station - still clutching our unsent package - only to find it teeming with travellers heading for the famous Cinque Terre villages. A little local knowledge meant we grabbed tickets at the 'bar' on the platform and jumped onto the train before most of the crowd. But by the time we departed, the carriage was stuffed to overflowing.
We left the post office and walked to the train station - still clutching our unsent package - only to find it teeming with travellers heading for the famous Cinque Terre villages. A little local knowledge meant we grabbed tickets at the 'bar' on the platform and jumped onto the train before most of the crowd. But by the time we departed, the carriage was stuffed to overflowing.
Twenty minutes later, as we left the Cinque Terre behind, it was a completely different story. The train had emptied and we enjoyed a very peaceful onward journey.
Twenty minutes later, as we left the Cinque Terre behind, it was a completely different story. The train had emptied and we enjoyed a very peaceful onward journey.
We’d passed through Sestri Levante numerous times before but, on this day, it was our destination.
We’d passed through Sestri Levante numerous times before but, on this day, it was our destination.
And it turned out to be, in our view, one of the loveliest towns in the region.
And it turned out to be, in our view, one of the loveliest towns in the region.
Located about halfway between Genoa to the north and the Cinque Terre to the south, Sestri Levante is less well known to international tourists but very popular with local holidaymakers.
Located about halfway between Genoa to the north and the Cinque Terre to the south, Sestri Levante is less well known to international tourists but very popular with local holidaymakers.
Set on a narrow peninsula, the delightful old town consists of a couple of main streets crossed by a series of narrow lanes.
Set on a narrow peninsula, the delightful old town consists of a couple of main streets crossed by a series of narrow lanes.
The pedestrian-only main thoroughfare is lined with typically Ligurian buildings …
The pedestrian-only main thoroughfare is lined with typically Ligurian buildings …
tall, narrow structures with colourful facades - homes above, shops and cafes at street level. (The Genoese 'focaccia bianca' here is sensational! €1 for a slice that will more than do for lunch).
tall, narrow structures with colourful facades - homes above, shops and cafes at street level. (The Genoese 'focaccia bianca' here is sensational! €1 for a slice that will more than do for lunch).
In stark contrast to the surrounding architecture, this is the Basilica of St Mary of Nazareth. While the basilica itself is older, the neoclassical facade dates from around 1840.
In stark contrast to the surrounding architecture, this is the Basilica of St Mary of Nazareth. While the basilica itself is older, the neoclassical facade dates from around 1840.
Records indicate that a chapel has stood on this site since the 1400s.
Records indicate that a chapel has stood on this site since the 1400s.
 
Because Sestri Levante sits on a narrow peninsula, it’s flanked on each side by the sea and, for many, the town’s beaches are its greatest attraction.
Because Sestri Levante sits on a narrow peninsula, it’s flanked on each side by the sea and, for many, the town’s beaches are its greatest attraction.
Though maybe it's not as much fun for the lifeguards whose job is to be on the beach, but not splashing about in the water.
Though maybe it's not as much fun for the lifeguards whose job is to be on the beach, but not splashing about in the water.
This long stretch of sand that is the Bay of Fables is largely privately managed, that is you pay to stay - around €25 per day - and there are many of these beach clubs or ‘bagni’ to choose from.
This long stretch of sand that is the Bay of Fables is largely privately managed, that is you pay to stay - around €25 per day - and there are many of these beach clubs or ‘bagni’ to choose from.
Each one also has a ‘bar’. 'Bagni Liguria' was packed with locals and serving delicious food - seafood pasta for Greg and minestrone with the region’s famous pesto for me.
Each one also has a ‘bar’. 'Bagni Liguria' was packed with locals and serving delicious food - seafood pasta for Greg and minestrone with the region’s famous pesto for me.
On the other side of town, this is the Bay of Silence …
On the other side of town, this is the Bay of Silence …
though, apparently, not so silent in mid-summer. :)
though, apparently, not so silent in mid-summer. 🙂
In northern Italy and Liguria, in particular, you'll find many outstanding examples of trompe l'oeil.
In northern Italy and Liguria, in particular, you'll find many outstanding examples of trompe l'oeil.
This art of the optical illusion has existed since the Renaissance.
This art of the optical illusion has existed since the Renaissance.
Painting architectural elements onto homes and villas was far less costly than creating or constructing the real thing.
Painting architectural elements onto homes and villas was far less costly than creating or constructing the real thing.
Houses were decorated and adorned for 'la bella figura' - literally 'the beautiful figure' - to create a good impression.
Houses were decorated and adorned for 'la bella figura' - literally 'the beautiful figure' - to create a good impression.
Shutters, cornices and balustrades, ribbons, garlands and curlicues ... all brought into being with trompe l'oeil.
Shutters, cornices and balustrades, ribbons, garlands and curlicues ... all brought into being with trompe l'oeil.
It's sometimes hard to tell whether a feature is real or simply 'a trick of the eye'.
It's sometimes hard to tell whether a feature is real or simply 'a trick of the eye'.
The 17th century Palazzo Durazzo-Pallavicini - originally the local bishop's seat - now serves as the town hall.
The 17th century Palazzo Durazzo-Pallavicini - originally the local bishop's seat - now serves as the town hall.
But not all architectural elements here are trompe l'oeil - some buildings boast the real thing.
But not all architectural elements here are trompe l'oeil - some buildings boast the real thing.
On the way to and from the train station, we passed this little park. A playground is a playground the world over, and watching this nonna swing her little granddaughter had us pining for our little ones at home.
On the way to and from the train station, we passed this little park. A playground is a playground the world over, and watching this nonna swing her little granddaughter had us pining for our little ones at home.
Sestri Levante is a lovely town and well worth enduring the Cinque Terre train crowds to enjoy.
Sestri Levante is a lovely town and well worth enduring the Cinque Terre train crowds to enjoy.
This, at least, was a most successful adventure. :)
This, at least, was a most successful adventure. 🙂