Sunday Stroll

There are some great walking tracks in the hills behind Spoleto. The most popular, the Giro dei Condotti, is an easy walk that delivers wonderful views back across the valley to the city.

But if you’re feeling a bit more adventurous, there are any number of tracks that wind up into the hills. And the reward for extra effort? Beautiful vistas across the Umbrian countryside … and a great lunch in the most unlikely of places.

Our starting point, the Basilica of St Peter, outside the city walls

We had a look inside and the church seems to be welcoming and supportive of all members of the community, including migrants and refugees

Ready for a quick getaway, though there was no sign of the bride and groom

The Giro dei Condotti is a well-defined and well-maintained track

It's a popular walk with great views back towards Spoleto

But there are lots of other options as well; most of the circuits are clearly sign posted

As you get a bit higher up, coloured markers on rocks and trees keep walkers on track

There are small churches like this one, as well as hermitages and convents scattered throughout the hills

In places, welcome cool springs bubble up to the surface

Reward for effort

Then we came upon the 12th century Church of San Guiliano

Not having seen anyone else for a couple of hours, it was quite a surprise to follow the track around behind the church to find this

A little restaurant with great food, good wine and a terrific view

We asked the waiter how people usually arrived at the restaurant; he explained that the road was just down below and the carpark was around the other side

Civilisation was a lot closer than we'd thought

Refreshed and refuelled we headed off again, but not via the road

And, fortunately, it was all downhill from there