What does it say about Amorgos that the island’s most popular tourist attraction is a monastery?

It says that the Hozoviotissa Monastery, bright white and pressed flat against a cliff face, is unusual and beautiful.

It also says that a visit to this island is less about ‘seeing’ and more about simply ‘being’.

 

Dedicated to the Virgin Mary, the Hozoviotissa Monastery is striking not only for its position but also for its history
Dedicated to the Virgin Mary, the Hozoviotissa Monastery is striking not only for its position but also for its history
Built in 1017 (and renovated in 1088), this is Greece's second oldest monastery
Built in 1017 (and renovated in 1088), this is Greece's second oldest monastery
The building is 40 metres wide and eight storeys high, but only eight metres deep
The building is 40 metres wide and eight storeys high, but only eight metres deep
And this is the only way in and out (or, more accurately, up and down)
And this is the only way in and out (or, more accurately, up and down)
In the 18th century, 100 priests lived here - today there are three
In the 18th century, 100 priests lived here - today there are three
On the day of our visit, we were welcomed by the youngest of those men, Father Theofilos; he'd seen us climbing up the path so waited for us at the top; then - after a little sit down to let us catch our breath - he invited us inside to see his monastery's beautiful church
On the day of our visit, we were welcomed by the youngest of those men, Father Theofilos; he'd seen us climbing up the path so waited for us at the top; then - after a little sit down to let us catch our breath - he invited us inside to see his monastery's beautiful church
Later, in the sitting room and under the watchful gaze of former priests and abbots, we shared coffee and turkish delight (loukoumi)
Later, in the sitting room and under the watchful gaze of former priests and abbots, we shared coffee and turkish delight (loukoumi)
Not far away there is another, much smaller monastery; this is the Monastery of St George Valsamitis
Not far away there is another, much smaller monastery; this is the Monastery of St George Valsamitis
It's built on the site of an ancient water oracle; in the 17th century 'readers' used water from the well to predict believers' future blessings
It's built on the site of an ancient water oracle; in the 17th century 'readers' used water from the well to predict believers' future blessings
Right up until the 1960s people came to consult the waters; the Orthodox Church decried such pagan practices, of course, and in 1967 had the original well cemented over
Right up until the 1960s people came to consult the waters; the Orthodox Church decried such pagan practices, of course, and in 1967 had the original well cemented over
There is still plenty of water on the site, though, and in times of heavy rain the springs sometimes overflow into the church itself (during our visit the carpet was still drying after a recent inundation)
There is still plenty of water on the site, though, and in times of heavy rain the springs sometimes overflow into the church itself (during our visit the carpet was still drying after a recent inundation)
This is Sister Irini, the monastery's only occupant and the only Nun on Amorgos (in a former life, Sister Irini was an art director in an Athen's advertising agency)
This is Sister Irini, the monastery's only occupant and the only Nun on Amorgos (in a former life, Sister Irini was an art director in an Athen's advertising agency)
Six years ago this amazing woman moved into what was, at that time, a long-abandoned building; since then she has worked tirelessly to restore the monastery and its gardens
Six years ago this amazing woman moved into what was, at that time, a long-abandoned building; since then she has worked tirelessly to restore the monastery and its gardens
One of the ways Sister Irini keeps the monastery going is by selling her paintings of religious icons; she enjoys the company of visitors and loves hearing their stories and sharing her own
One of the ways Sister Irini keeps the monastery going is by selling her paintings of religious icons; she enjoys the company of visitors and loves hearing their stories and sharing her own
There's a lovely postscript to this story - a few days after our visit to the Hozoviotissa Monastery, we went to lunch at a local taverna; Father Theofilos was there, too, with a couple of his friends. When he heard it was my birthday he arranged for a birthday dessert to be brought out (unfortunately it was Lent so Father Theofilos couldn't enjoy the cake with the rest of us). It was a special birthday treat. :)
There's a lovely postscript to this story - a few days after our visit to the Hozoviotissa Monastery, we went to lunch at a local taverna; Father Theofilos was there, too, with a couple of his friends. When he heard it was my birthday he arranged for a birthday dessert to be brought out (unfortunately it was Lent so Father Theofilos couldn't enjoy the cake with the rest of us). It was a special birthday treat. 🙂