Touch and Go

On our way south to Sicily we decided to make a brief stop in Campania, a region of Italy we really didn’t know at all. Specifically we wanted to see Naples and the Amalfi Coast. We’d been looking forward to visiting Naples but weren’t so sure about the famous Amalfi, so the whistle stop tour was intended as a kind of reconnoitre. The plan was to identify those places we’d like to come back and spend more time in. Here’s what we found.

Naples is a vibrant, energetic city. The people are fun and the pizza’s great (no surprise there). We had no idea what part of the city to stay in and, more by luck than good management, we ended up in Chiaia which is close to the waterfront and has lots of posh shops and good restaurants. But it’s also an old residential district where washing hangs from balconies, nonnas haul bags of groceries up steep hills, and lovers quarrel loudly in the street. We loved it all and can’t wait to get back there. (And no, we didn’t get mugged).

From Naples we day tripped to Capri and Sorrento. We ended up on Capri on 1st May, the national May Day holiday; not our best-ever idea as it turned out. The island was, literally, packed with tourists like us. Every day dozens of ferries deposit thousands of people onto this relatively small island but apparently on this day the numbers were exceptional.

At the port we bundled onto (what felt like a very overloaded) small bus piloted by a driver who encouraged his passengers to chorus ‘oooohh’ as he careened round hairpin bends on the switchback road up the hill. Standing crushed into the back corner struggling to hang on, it was the first time I’d felt nervous since we landed in Italy. The experience probably coloured my view of Capri – lots of tourist shops catering to lots of tourists. But as Greg reminded me, every location is different and each has its merits. He’s a nice person.

Sorrento and Amalfi are pretty and popular, too, though in both locations it seemed slightly easier to get away from the crowds and into quieter parts.

And then we discovered Procida, the little island that made everything right again. In the Bay of Naples and also accessible by ferry, Procida is less popular than its larger neighbours. Certainly it’s less sophisticated, the shops are more ordinary, and fewer restaurants have the menu turistico. You know that’s why we loved it and why we’ll be back.

Greg’s reflections on our whistle stop tour reminded me that not all travellers are alike and those places that we enjoy might not be at the top of someone else’s list, and vice versa. But every traveller is seeking new experiences and insights and, in the end, each one of us is richer for having had them – whatever form they take.

Naples

Naples waterfront; we spent a lovely hour or so here and it quickly became apparent that Neapolitan kids spend their lives 'messing about in boats'

When the weather's good, the boats become floating decks for swimming and sunbathing

On a boat or on the beach, everyone was just enjoying the beautiful day

Rows of shops and restaurants run parallel to the waterfront, and further back are the old residential streets

Drying washing, a common sight in Naples

And again, but this time framed by offerings from the local second-hand goods store

If the street is the front yard, that's where you play

Naples is famous for lemon granita

It's delicious and refreshing on a warm day

We definitely want to come back to Naples for more

Capri

Welcome to Capri! The bus from the port

Survive the crowded bus ride to be deposited into this

There were lots of boutiques selling blue clothing (really, there were four or five of these shops in a row)

Or you might prefer a wooden spoon and tea towel for just 12 euros

Away from the shops, though, Capri's landscape is rugged and beautiful

The view from these homes would be spectacular

In fact, it would be something like this

After the bus ride up, we decided to take the funicular back down the hill

The next day we saw on the news that in response to the huge numbers coming to the island, Capri's mayor was threatening to follow Venice's lead and install turnstiles at the port!

Sorrento

A passenger ferry delivering visitors to ports around the Bay

Arriving into Sorrento

The harbour here is small and picturesque

The town sits directly above on top of the steep cliff face

Almost every flat surface has been utilised

Another bus ride up the hill - still crowded but much more sedate

Of course Sorrento is also popular

But the back streets less so

View from above

The swimmers

The beach

The deck

And the restaurant

And finally, having fun with the street art

Amalfi

Our introduction to Amalfi - traffic and traffic wardens

The pretty waterfront, and just a few of the buses unloading people into the town

Even the local buses have trouble negotiating these streets

There were plenty of flags flying

Taking photos of Amalfi's answer to Trevi

And here's our pic of the fountain!

Piazza del Duomo and Amalfi's 9th century Roman cathedral

Procida

In the main street near the port

This island was very different to other places we'd visited on previous days

The same little paved streets, but without the crowds

The church of Santa Maria della Pietà e San Giovanni Battista

On the bus again; this was a two-way street, not a lot of space for passing traffic!

We jumped on the wrong bus at one stage and ended up in this lovely spot

But eventually we found our way to the colourful village of Corricella

Looks like this is where the colour-testing is done

The waterfront and our lunchtime view

Procida was definitely on top of our list for a return visit