Tradition has it that when Pope Pius IV’s envoy arrived in Milan in 1510, children shouted with joy at the sight of the gifts he’d brought. Cries of ‘Oh Beautiful! Oh Beautiful!‘ – in the local Milanese dialect – are said to have rung out.

It’s a story recalled today in the name of one of Milan’s largest and oldest Christmas markets, but it’s a phrase that applies just as well to so much else about this lovely city. Oh Bej! Oh Bej, Milano!